Camera Basics 101

Thursday 28 August 2014

Your camera is actually nothing more than a box with a hole in it. Yes, all that money you’ve spent and that is basically what you’ve got. The basics of a camera have changed very little since day one. You have a box with a hole in it and you control how much light is allowed into it.
basic photography
“The Moment It Clicks” captured by Flávio
The best part about newer cameras is that they can think for you. They meter a scene and adjust the settings. These settings are simply the shutter and the aperture. You simply have to compose the shot and push a button. This works well for the most part. But, you didn’t spend all of that money to allow the camera to do all of the work for you, did you?
Cameras have manual settings, as well. These settings allow for creativity and for you to override the auto settings. I’m going to let you in on a little known secret: your camera, as smart as it is, doesn’t always get it right! Sometimes, you will need to override its settings. Other times, you will choose to override its settings.
This article will show you how to do just that, as well as provide you with some examples and/or circumstances as to when it may be necessary. This article covers the very basics of exposure control. There is far more to learn about this subject but this will help get you started.

ISO

ISO determines how sensitive your camera is to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive to light your camera will be. Remember, though, the higher the ISO, the more noise you will introduce into your image. Ideally, you should always shoot at ISO 100. This is the best setting. However, this is not always possible. Let us say that you are indoors, at an event, ISO 100 will probably not work very well. Meaning, it will not allow you to hand hold your camera at 1/160 or higher. We will cover more on that later.
So, what you have to do is start bumping up your ISO. Try 200, then 400, etc., until you achieve a shutter speed that you can hand hold. Most cameras today are much better with noise. Using an ISO of 800 or higher can still produce good quality, clean images. I recently did a shoot at The Kentucky Derby Festival Balloon Glow, where I was shooting at ISO 1600, and I was impressed with the results.
high ISO photography
“Balloon Glow” captured by Forsaken Fotos at ISO 1250
Just remember, your goal is ISO 100. You should stray from that only when necessary. Why would you ever need to stray from that? Well, let’s say that you are indoors at a sporting event, and at ISO 100 your shutter speed is at 1/120 of a second. That is not going to work. Your images will be blurry. So, you bump up your ISO until you can achieve a shutter speed that will stop the action. We will cover shutter speed in more detail later. But, in general, you bump up your film speed, which makes your camera more sensitive to light, allows for a higher shutter speed, and smaller apertures. But, the downside to higher film speed is noise.

Shutter Speed

Shutter speed is calculated in seconds. A shutter speed of 1/160 means 1/160 of a second. A value of 1 means one second, while a value of 2 means two seconds, and 1/1000 means 1/1000 of a second. Yes, this is very fast! Most cameras will go up to 1/4000 to 1/8000 of a second. Most of your photography will not need to utilize these speeds. In general, you will find that your average needs will be met using anywhere from 1/60 to 1/500 of a second.
Now, what exactly is shutter speed? Shutter speed is the amount of time that the shutter remains open. In other words, it controls how long the flap to the hole remains up. Longer time equals more light. A byproduct of this longer exposure is blurred images. Sometimes, this is a desirable effect. For example, when photographing a running stream and you want the water to look silky smooth.
slow shutter speed photography
“The Creek” captured by Mitch Johanson (Click image to see more from Johanson.)
However, this is not what you want when shooting sports or action shots. You want a faster shutter speed to stop that action. Generally, a good action stopping shutter speed is around 1/200 of a second and up. You will find that 1/500 of a second is not uncommon to stop action at a football game. For this type of image, the faster the shutter, the better. This is where ISO comes into play.
Remember, you can bump up your ISO to make your camera more sensitive to light. This will allow for faster shutter speeds. You can also change your aperture to increase shutter speed. More on that later.
Generally speaking, for hand held photography, you want the shutter speed to equal your lens focal length, that is, the minimum shutter speed (secs) = 1/focal length (mm). So, if you are using a 55-200mm lens and your zoom setting is at the 100mm mark, you want a shutter speed of 1/100 of a second. This works well, except when you get below a 60th of a second. A 60th of a second, in general, is the minimum hand held setting you want to use.
On a side note, many new lenses now come with vibration reduction, or image stabilization, which will allow you to easily hand hold at 1/40 of a second, and possibly even slower shutter speeds. This all depends on how steady you are. In general, try to keep your shutter speeds at 1/60 or faster.
Slower shutter speed equals more time that light is being allowed in. Using shutter speeds under 1/60 equals blurry images. To capture silky smooth looking water flows, you have to slow things down to around one second or slower. Obviously, you cannot hand hold a camera at that speed so you will need a tripod.
Faster shutter speed equals less time that light is being allowed in. Fast shutter speeds stop action.
fast shutter speed photography
“Up in the Air – FUN” captured by Ram Iyer (Click image to see more from Iyer.)
Remember, the rule of thumb: shutter speed should equal the lens focal length. Still, in my experience, I try to double that, if possible, for sports. For portrait shots, the rule of thumb works fine.

Aperture

Aperture controls the size of the hole or iris that allows light into your camera. It is the doorway to your sensor. Smaller apertures mean less light, while larger apertures means more light.
There is an inverse relationship with this. Small apertures, like 1.8, mean the aperture (the hole) is larger. Higher values, like 5.6, and 8.0, mean the hole is closing up, getting smaller. So, a larger aperture number means less light is getting in. Remember, this determines the flow of light coming in, while shutter determines how long it is allowed in, or how long the flap is left open. Once open, the aperture is the size of the hole the light is passing through.
Other than the amount of light being let in, the aperture will also determine how in focus the objects around your main subject will be. This is called depth of field. A large aperture, such as f/1.8 or f/4.0, will tend to blur objects in front of and behind your main subject.
large aperture photography
“Untitled” captured by Giusy Siesti (Click image to see more from Siesti.)
Let’s say that you are taking a portrait and you want to blur the background. You would choose a larger aperture, the largest your lens will allow. This could be 1.8 or 5.6—whichever it is, this is an ideal setting for a single portrait shot. This works very well with zoom lenses. With a zoom set at a 5.6 or lower setting, you can generally turn your background into a soft blur, this is called bokeh.
bokeh
“After the Rain” captured by WhiteSpiritWolf (Click image to see more from this photographer.)
*Note that the further away the background is from your subject, the greater the blur will be.
Here is a simple test that will show you just how different apertures work in the real world:
Take your camera, along with several batteries. Stand the batteries up and place them on a table about 16 inches apart. Have at least 3 for this test. Now, take your camera and put it into AV mode, then set your ISO around 1600. You may even need to go higher since you are indoors. Remember, you want a shutter speed around 1/60 of a second, so if you have to bump up your ISO more, that’s fine. You will notice, as you move your aperture, your shutter speed will automatically adjust for you. Your goal here is to be able to hand hold your camera for this test. Bumping your ISO up will help you achieve a faster shutter by making your camera more sensitive to the light.
Now, focus on the middle battery and take pictures with different apertures. Start with the largest, that would be 1.8, 5.6 etc. and work your way up to F16. Notice what happens to the other batteries with the smaller apertures of f/8, 11 and 16. They begin to come into focus. At f/5.6, and below, they are somewhat blurred.
Portrait photography is all about making the subject stand out, and one way to do this is to blur the background by using a large aperture of f/5.6 or greater. Remember, larger equals smaller numbers. If you are shooting a large number of people, then you will not be able to do this, because you will need a smaller aperture, of around f/8 or so to bring the crowd into focus. Remember, you can only focus on one person but you will have many at different distances from the camera. A smaller aperture, i.e., a larger number, can compensate for this difference.
Small aperture = larger numbers: f/5.6, f/8.0, f/16, etc.
Large aperture = smaller numbers: f/1.8, f/2.8, f/4.0, etc.

Some Tips to Remember

  • Remember, when hand holding a camera your goal is to have a shutter speed of 1/60 of a second or faster. Otherwise, you risk getting a blurred image. You can change your aperture to a lower number to help achieve a faster shutter speed, or bump up your ISO to make your camera more sensitive to light. Both of these will help you attain a faster shutter speed. If you are zooming out remember to bump up your shutter speed. Try to match or exceed your focal length. If you are zoomed out in the 200mm range, a shutter speed of 1/60 will most likely be blurry. You want at least 1/200 of a second or faster.
  • Larger apertures means the opening to your sensor is large; while the numbers, themselves, will be low. F/1.8 is considered fast and this is a large hole into your camera. F/2.8 and f/4.0 are also still considered fast.
  • Smaller apertures are designated by larger numbers, f/5.6, f/11, f/16, etc. Remember, also, the smaller the aperture, the more in focus objects will be around your main subject. Also note, when shooting something like a flower close up, you will want a smaller aperture. Something around f/8 will work very well. This will give you greater detail and bring the whole flower into focus.
  • Do you like sun stars or sunbursts; those shots with the sun in them that look like a star? Then, try using an aperture of f/16 or f/22. Don’t look directly into the sun, of course. I have often photographed this type of image, using a tree to block the sun, while allowing the sun to just barely peek through. You can also achieve this effect by positioning the sun off to the left or to the right of the image.
sunburst photography
“Sunburst” captured by James Jordan
  • Keep your ISO at 100, if possible. Generally, bump it up only when you need the speed, i.e. a faster shutter speed or a smaller aperture.
  • Slow that shutter down and use a tripod to get silky smooth water flows. Try using settings around 1-3 seconds or slower.
  • Remember, the further the background is from your subject, the more blurred it will become. This works especially well with a zoom lens and an aperture setting at f/5.6 or lower. Pro photographers utilize this technique a lot during portrait shoots.

Common Settings on Cameras

AV = Aperture Priority. You set the aperture and the camera will set the shutter for you.
TV = Shutter Priority (Time Value). You set the shutter and the camera will set the aperture for you.
P = Program/Auto. The camera will set both the shutter and the aperture for you; warning you if your shutter speed falls below 160th of a second. You still control the ISOFilm speed.
Green Mode = Full Auto. The camera will set both the shutter, aperture, and ISO, as well as fire the flash, if necessary.

Lens Filters: What Are They and When Do We Need Them

Monday 25 August 2014

Many lens filters in today’s digital society have been made redundant. Most cameras and/or post-processing tools now include features for correcting white balance, for softening, and for various special effects. But there are still some effects that simply cannot be reproduced without the use of filters. Here we give you an overview of the most essential filters that every photographer should learn to use.
lens filter guide“love story” captured by b-bee 

Using Lens Filters

A small filter may be applied to the lens to provide reinforcing or fun effects. Filters had their hay day when people where still photographing with film. Digital imaging had at that time not come that far, and we used different filters to get the desired effect instead.
For that reason, many associate the use of filters with a clear image manipulation. However the most common filters do not provide such drastic results. They are used simply to reinforce the individual effects, such as light phenomena.

Here are Some of the Most Common Lens Filters

Polarizing Filter
A polarizing filter is probably the most known and used of all filters, and not without reason. This filter works much like putting a pair of sunglasses in front of the lens. It eliminates reflections, glass, shiny surfaces and water, and thus enables you to photograph what is behind a window or under the water, rather than a surface full of reflections. Polarizing filters also contribute to greater contrast and more saturated colors, and they can make the sky darker, which is especially useful when photographing landscapes.
polarizer filter“Dubai Skyline” captured by Bella 
Polarizing filters work, however, only when you photograph your subject from an angle, not straight on. That is, if you stand right in front of a window and shoot, the filter may not be able to remove the reflections in the glass. Therefore, make sure you’re always shooting from an angle. There are two types of polarizers: linear and circular. Linear is used with older manual cameras, while the circular is used for cameras with auto focus.
UV Filter
A UV filter improves color reproduction and eliminates blur caused by ultraviolet radiation. Ultraviolet light is invisible to the eye and highly prevalent when shooting in hazy weather, mountainous regions, coastal areas and areas with very clear air. UV filters are colorless and do not require any extension of exposure time. It is recommended that UV filters be permanently mounted on the lens as a protective filter.
When you attach this filter on top of the lens glass, it is the actual filter that is exposed to any dust and scratches. It is much cheaper to replace a filter if you scratch or damage it, than to replace the entire lens.
When using a UV-filter, it is important to remember that the glass of the filter should have at least as good quality as the glass of the lens. Otherwise, the picture quality will be deteriorated.
ND (Neutral Density) Filter
A neutral density filter, makes it possible to shoot with slower shutter speeds or large apertures, even in very bright situations. This is because the amount of light emitted through the lens is reduced. This is useful if you, for example, want to photograph a waterfall in daylight, but still want the smooth effect of water in motion. ND filters are available in different strengths, depending on how much light you want to block out.
oregon-coast-neutral-density-filter“Sunshine” captured by Luke Detwiler
Another option is a graduated ND filter. This filter goes from dark to clear, with either smooth or sharp transitions. This filter is used, for example, when the foreground and background require different exposure. An example is when you photograph something dark under a bright sky. With a graduated ND filter, you can correctly expose the dark portion of the image without the bright portion being overexposed.
They are also used to reduce the contrast of the image. At sunrise, you may need to dim the sunlight a bit to reveal details in other areas of the image. There are also graded alternatives with colors, which can be used for special effects. Orange or brownish versions can provide atmospheric skies in the pictures.

Apple Offers Free iPhone 5 Battery Replacement - See if Yours Is Eligible

Saturday 23 August 2014

man_checking_out_iphone5_reuters.jpg


Apple is offering free battery replacement to select iPhone 5 owners under the iPhone 5 battery replacement program introduced on Friday.
Apple says it has determined that a "very small percentage" of iPhone 5 units may suddenly experience shorter battery life or need to be charged more frequently. The company adds that the affected iPhone 5 devices were sold between September 2012 and January 2013 and fall within a limited serial number range.
If your iPhone 5 "is experiencing these symptoms and meets the eligibility requirements", Apple says it will replace your iPhone 5's battery, free of charge.
The program opened to customers in US and China on Friday, August 22, and will be available in other countries from next Friday (August 29).
To see if your iPhone 5 is eligible, visit the iPhone 5 battery replacement program page on Apple's website and enter your serial number in the text box and click Submit. Apple will instantly tell you if you are eligible for a free battery replacement. If you don't know how to find the serial number of your iPhone,click here.
Even if you've bought your iPhone 5 outside the time window specified by Apple, it is worth entering your serial number to see if your unit is eligible as sometimes there can be a difference between the time Apple shipped the unit and when it was purchased by the end user, especially if its a resale or refurbished unit.
Apple has posted other information like where to bring in your iPhone for battery replacement if it is eligible, and instructions on how to backup your data before doing that. Check out the program page on Apple's website for the rest of the details.
Earlier this year, Apple had launched a sleep/ wake button replacement program for select iPhone 5 units.

What Is Affiliate Marketing FAQ For Newbies

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Affiliate marketing is one of the best ways to make big money online .The limit of making money with affiliate is marketing is “Sky”.But affiliate marketing is not easy as you think, it takes time, you need trust and you need to learn how humans work ( Marketing icon razz Affiliate Marketing FAQ For Newbies ) So be patient and be passionate in promoting a product and yes, if you can promote it like mad then you’ll make money damn sure icon smile Affiliate Marketing FAQ For Newbies .I suggest you to recommend only high quality products to your readers and subscribers , because that helps in increasing conversions as well as trust.So let’s discuss some frequently asked questions about affiliate marketing.
1.What is Affiliate Marketing ?
You select an affiliate program, you join them , you promote their product/service, you generate sales or leads and you get paid.That’s affiliate marketing
2.How much I can earn from Affiliate Marketing?
Sky is the limit.
3.Is there any charges to Join Affiliate Programs?
Majority of the affiliate programs are free to use.
4.Can I join any affiliate program on the web?
Yes, you can but for some affiliate programs you can only apply, if the affiliate manager is approving your account then you can use them too.
5.How will I promote their products?
You can use your blogs, email list, facebook and other social media’s etc (Depends on the affiliate terms and conditions of that company)
6.How much Can I earn per sale?
Depends on the product and the affiliate program you choose, it may start from $0.001 to $1000 per sale.
7.Which is the Best Affiliate programs for Indians?
The most used affiliate programs are hostgator , bluehost , wpengine, flipkart etc.
8. What is the minimum payout and how can I grab the money?
The minimum payout depends up on the affiliate program ($0.001 to $1000) and you can use your PayPal for payment, still it depends on the program.
9.What are Affiliate Networks?
There are some affiliate networks like Shareasale , Commission Junction etc, where you can join a lot of affiliate programs and manage them in a single platform.
10.What is Pay Per Lead ?
Some affiliate programs pay for every single lead you generate.
11.What are Conversion Rates?
Conversions rates are calculated by this equation : Total Number of sales/Total Number of Click x 100
12.Is Adsense an affiliate program?
Adsense is an ad network, not an affiliate program.
13.What are w8 and w9 Forms?
W8 and W9 are tax forms for US and Non US citizens.You need to fill that In order to get paid from some affiliate programs.
14.How can I find affiliate programs?
Google for related keywords on your niche and search for their services and products, finally find its affiliate programs.
15.Is Affiliate Marketing Easy?
It’s easy if you have good influence and mailing list, else if you’re blank then you need to build up some influence and traffic to generate some sales, you may also try search engine marketing to generate mass sales.
 

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